What makes batteries leak

Though the risk for live lithium batteries is very low and virtually non-existent for dead ones. All batteries self-discharge whether installed or not. Many appliances have a significant standby power drain, including remotes and mobile phones.

In many modern flashlights, an additional small current is always pulled even when the flashlight is turned "off" especially due to electronic switches in programmable lights or "find me" LEDs.

This is sometimes called "parasitic drain" and is often considered a feature not a flaw - similar to how a car's electronics are always instantly available. This drain is easily eliminated by locking out or removing one end of the flashlight. It is possible your camera flash had parasitic drain if it has electronic switches or you could just not have used it for a long time.

Thus, these additional installed discharges increase the likelihood of leakage within a set period of time. They were sitting in the drawer, and have a March dating.

Same here, in an unopened 4-pack of AAA Alkaline batteries one was leaking although dated December Alkaline cells -- perhaps all primary unrechageable cells -- tend to leak when net potential voltage is applied, i. This can happen in devices with more than one cell in series if some of the cells have less capacity than others, because voltage drops off as milli amp-hours are exhausted.

It's also a reason to prefer single-cell devices, because those devices can't have cells that leak from being charged by adjacent cells, and can more-safely consume partial, unmatched, or mismatched cells. Modern integrated-semiconductor boost-buck devices make this more practical. Most all? LED flashlights that take a single 1. A LED flashlight that takes three cells is very unlikely to have a boost converter, because that voltage is sufficient to drive LEDs.

Unless they are physically damaged or over-charged, car batteries typically should not leak. Car batteries do not last forever however, and as a rule of thumb they should be replaced approximately every three to five years.

The longer a car battery is in use, the more unreliable and prone to leakages they become. For this reason they should be checked at frequent intervals. When a car battery leaks acid, it is usually through the cell caps on the top of the battery, or due to damage to the body.

Smart battery chargers detect and give signals to show when a battery is charged to full capacity to avoid this. Extreme cold weather is also a factor that can lead to battery leakage. Under such conditions the battery acid inside may begin to freeze and cause the body of the battery to expand, putting pressure on the cells, similar to water pipes that burst in winter weather.

Although this is unlikely to happen, it can still occur, which may result in acid leakage. Car batteries contain a solution of water and acid. Ikea Laddas are as good as the Eneloops and cheaper. Have been using amazon brand rechargeable and eneloop rechargeable. Initially, both brands performed very well. Two years down the road, the amazon rechargeable batteries are not holding a charge as well as they once did. Had to experiment a little. No leaking issues with either brand.

There are soooo many brands to choose from. Duracells are terrible now, thinking about taking them all back to costco, have about 20 packs, checked them again the other day and one more unopened pack already has leakers after only 3 months since the last check,,, Energizer litiums are the go to if not my rechargeables.

Years ago they were. I always used them. But then something changed a number of years ago. They leak. Maybe they cheapened their manufacturing processes. Who knows… But I definitely do not buy them anymore.

Just a thought. Years ago, my flashlights had incandescent bulbs. As a cop, I used my flashlight a lot. They never lasted long enough to leak. They went downhill soon after Berkshire Hathaway bought them from Proctor and Gamble and started making them overseas china and packaging them in the US. Ken, Have had a few friends ask me if ive had trouble with them as well, same thing, always leaks that ruin the device, we are all careful about where etc, so its the batteries, When they leak in the original package in a tub in my storeroom that never goes over 65 degrees and never sees daylight theres a problem.

Threw out a great fluorescent lantern. Tried to clean but to no avail. Now I have the Eneloops and only buy Energizer batteries. Working through the Duracell and keeping a watch on the items that have them. Really cool idea they came up with. I have a battery charger that will recharge all types of batteries including alkaline. Got it on Amazon. Duracell and Energizer are pretty good.

Surprisingly, the cheapo batteries from Harbor Freight which you can for free with their coupon are among the ones that recharge best.

With this process, I rarely need to buy batteries. They recharge just fine. Always keep track of their temperature, and if you have a charger without a charge controller keep a close eye on the batteries because they will just keep charging until they start to leak. Note to others: Charge alkaline batteries at your own risk ; Although not intended for recharging, I know that some have some limited success to an extent.

Think it was AA size. Yes, the batteries get hot if left in a charger that just keeps pushing power through which mine does. Of them all, the worst rechargers are the rechargables. Go figure. Maybe yall let your duracell batteries get hot or had them in a hot storage for a while. In the past I have had all kinds of batteries leak. My oldest ones d cells came with giger counters, they are eveready dry cells in the area of 20 years old and are clean full 1.

Still perfect at about 1. I have used Rayovac batteries for many years, and never had any major problem with them. They get old, I just throw them away. Shame on me. No leaks so far, but then I swap them out more often then most people do. I also have never had one leak on me.

You can set it to a charge rate from MAh up to 2-amps. It charges batteries, breaks in new batteries, cycles them and reconditions the batteries. I had a digital camera that ran on AA batts and bought a few packs of Energizer rechargeable batts.

I charged them and tried to use them. The camera would turn off after 2 or 3 pictures because of low battery power. I thought I got a bad run of the Energizer batts but after buying 5 packages of them and having all of them do the same thing I refuse to give Energizer a single dime of my money.

Cutting quality saves money, but it lowers quality. And in the case of batteries it can destroy an expensive electronic item. I imagine the battery would need some kind of vent and I would think it could be made in a way to allow gas escape and yet no chemical leak.

It appears there is a consensus out there that are having trouble with Duracell brand of batteries. Count Me among those that have had trouble with Duracell batteries leaking. I try to use energizers within any expensive devices butt I mostly have an abundance of inexpensive devices around my house. I also go around the house checking the batteries about 1x per month to check for battery malfunctions.

I thought I was having trouble because I moved out of a relatively warm desert-type of climate years ago. I still store batteries within a plastic box within my house these days rather than in the garage. I am not sure if temperature extremes hurt the batteries. They just seem to last longer if stored indoors. I have not found a vendor of alkaline batteries that do not leak. In fact I switched to Duracell a few years ago because I had so many Energizers destroy devices.

Meanwhile my Dad just had a flashlight destroyed by leaking Ray-O-Vacs a month after opening the package. In about I earned a shiny 2 D-Cell flashlight for enrolling a certain number of new paper-route customers. So I boxed it up and sent it off. As I was walking home from the post office, it occurred to me that it might have been clever to put my address somewhere in or on the box….

I have a head torch where the middle battery has suddenly started getting very hot and discharging. Now the negative terminal has turned slightly darker, almost a burned look. I tried a fresh set of batteries, same problem, middle one discharges itself after a few mins of being super hot and the Duracell label starts to shrivel up right before my eyes.

Probable broken head torch headlamp. Time for another? Some devices are shipped out with batteries pre-installed but a piece of plastic between the battery and the contacts, would that work as well as removing the batteries entirely?

If so, does it matter if that plastic sits on the positive or negative side? Matt I would not risk it, Have had brand new batteries in unopened package leaking in a dark cool storage closet,. I still use a combination of both. It does not actually say made in the USA, just assembled, under manufacture label rules that can be as minimal as packaging them up for sale. Duracell batteries are apparently made in China.

My solution is to open the battery compartment once a month to check the battery status. For the slightly more expensive items like mag lights or minimag lights, I am using only Energizer brand batteries. This transition is slow for me because, like many on this site, when I buy batteries, I buy a lot or in large quantities.

That is why I am still using the Duracells until my supply peters out. I began noticing trouble with Duracells some years ago about the time Ken mentioned having trouble with them too on this website. Loss of good equipment is just as big a problem as battery corrosion in healthcare. Lastly, I keep my batteries stored in a plastic bin inside the house where I can protect the batteries from temperature extremes and extremes in humidity.

I have noticed an increase in battery leakage since relocating to a wetter climate. I recently went round and round with Energizer and Duracell over a bunch of batteries that had corroded inside a sealed package…both brands.

The Duracell batteries were the worst. I have had more corrosion from that brand than Energizer. Many remote controls used the Duracell, and were corroded. I have had little problem with the C and D or 9V; all of which I have a substantial stash. Most were purchases at Sam;s club. I never liked Duracell anyway. Years ago they were alright. Then something changed. Now they leak. Just purchased 10 light up ornaments that are really ornaments that go on tables.

They are pretty big and I love the scenes in them. I am hoping it is the batteries, but they are new. I am afraid to use that light up beautiful ornament. Now I have all those ornaments and am afraid to give them to my friends fearing it might be the ornament itself causing the battery to do that. I am just sick about this. I love they way they look and was so excited to give them to all my friends.

Can anyone ease my fears here? I have found rayovac to be bad leakers. I have Rayovac batteries in my drawer that are at least 3 yrs. Are you keeping them in a dry spot? How does alkiline vs lithium power life compare? If twice as much or more life in lithium sounds like that is way to go? I use rechargeables around the house and in EDC.

You should be aware that decent alkalines can be recharged as many as half-a-dozen times even if they are not rechargeables. Lithium are strictly use once and when it is dead, toss it. There is no recharging them. The minimag using LED bulb lit up bright and strong.

On digging through my battery box, I did find some corroded Duracells and they got tossed out along with the defunct headlamp.

I have used it at work off and on for several years before it finally gave up the ghost. The reminder article came at a time when the days are getting shorter and I use flashlights and headlamps more frequently at my place of work. Losers… fix the problem! I seem to be among the minority here. For the past 2 or 3 years I noticed Energizer batteries not Max corroding in everything I used them in. A few of the devices were not used often, other devices were used at least once a week.

Once the insulating seals at the ends of the battery have been breached in some cases, the outer steel canister might rust and corrode as well , the hydrogen escapes without notice. But the liquid electrolyte—in this case, potassium hydroxide—exits with it.

Beware: Potassium hydroxide can cause eye, skin, and respiratory irritation. If you come in contact with it, rinse well and consult with a doctor to see whether you need medical care. To be safe, you should still wear gloves when you handle the powder and refrain from breathing it in or eating it.

To clean a gadget caked with the aftermath of a leaking battery, dip a cotton swab in an acid such as lemon juice or distilled white vinegar and dab it on the potassium carbonate—that neutralizes it. Go slowly. The liquid will start to fizzle as it interacts with the potassium carbonate. Once the white powder softens, you can gently rub it away with a cloth or toothbrush. For more tips and information, check our battery buying guide and Ratings.